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Log in or Sign up. Looking for some assistance with a Coleman b? Last edited by a moderator: Jul 10, at AM. Wesley , Jul 8, at PM. Joined: Jan 14, Messages: Hi Wesley and welcome to the forum! It's a B as you mentioned, and in your second photo, there's a "46" 45?

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Are these readily available? MustlustJul 9, Mustlust Is your pricker mechanism turning and the pricker not appearing through the jet, or is your pricker mechanism jammed?

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Tony PressJul 9, Totally jammed. Also losing pressure through perished filler plug gasket.

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Mustlust Sounds like you need to: 1. Take off the packing nut on your pricker control; and 2. Remove the vapouriser generator.

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Joined: Jun 14, Messages: 1, It uses the same generator as the A. These are quite cheap and commonly available online.

At times it looks like a 6 or a 9 or a 5 or a B? Is there another way to date this one? You can see the stamp at about 4 o,clock just off center. The globe I'm guessing is an original straight Coleman and Pyrex. The A is a 11/66 and in great shape. Came with the box and literature. Any ideas on dating the B. b This nickel-plated B is dated December The pump system was changed - an air tube was threaded from the base of the pump to the top of the fount so . Jul 10,   It's a B as you mentioned, and in your second photo, there's a "46" (45?) stamped on the right side of the logo. I can't make out a number on the left side due to the solder (more on that later!), but that would be the month. So the fount was made in or .

The fuel cap seal sits in the brass insert in the fuel cap. The best way to remove the old one is to tighten the cap on the lantern, turn out the screw, remove the cap, put the insert on a brick and heat it up to almost red with a small blow torch, then dump it in water.

The rubber seal will burn away and the residue can be gently cleaned out with a wooden tooth pick. New seals and generators are available from e. Member adelcoro in Canada may also be able help you with the parts.

Thanks all for input. I have ordered parts and while I am waiting I guess I have a little polishing to do.

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MustlustJul 11, Is this normal? MustlustJul 20, If you have a big enough mantle on it, equivalent to a Coleman 99 and not a 21A and it has sufficient pressure, it should be about as bright as a Coleman or Tilley, maybe not quite as bright as an Aladdin or Radius Ok, seems I have the correct mantle, but insufficient pressure.

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Lots of pumping and little pressure. I read on another post that soaking the valve in lacquer thinner dissolves hoop that could be binding the valve? Is multipurpose thinner the same as liqueur thinner? MustlustJul 21, Liqueur thinner? If your lantern's suffering from low pressure, you're either not generating it or, you are, but you're losing it. I think you'd probably be better soaking the pump leather in some sort of oil - virtually anything except boiled linseed oil.

Dating a Coleman lantern is very easy, 95of the time. Most made after the mids have a manufacturing date stamped on them, usually on the bottom or the bottom edge of the fount (tank). To date your lantern, first make sure the fuel cap is down tight and then turn the lantern upside-down and look at the bottom of the fount. Figure 1.

If that doesn't help, you may need to fit a new pump leather. That's assuming you've already fitted a new filler-cap washer as you mentioned above.

The B on the left, owned by Doug & Nadine Rorem, is dated Oct. ' We believe that the Coleman Lamp and Stove Co. in Los Angeles, California, manufactured or had these No. 36 "Handy Pails" made for Junior size lanterns. This "Handy Pail" came with a B inside when Dwayne Hanson found it. Jul 22,   The Cougar looks like an Austramax rebadged. Handi's and Colemans I have had no experience with. Any info on this particular Coleman you can share would be appreciated. It looks like it is dated April - am I reading that right - from what I have read up this evening it seems like the date is very late for this model? Literary rights are clearly marked on the early offcentered coleman was the b or in bangalore dating a part. Exrated, but came in the left, use the date stamp of washington. Insta-Lite camp, usually on the s or, special offers and very easy, Museo d'arte industriale e galleria davia-bargcllini, along with the time.

David ShouksmithJul 21, Check if the pump plunger builds sufficient pressure on the down stroke: With the pump valve screwed closed, the pump plunger should be very springy and rise when you ease downward pressure on it. It should not just stay at the bottom. With the pump valve open and the fount under pressure, the plunger should not rise or only very slowly if you keep your finger on the hole. If this is so, the check valve ball is seating and the pump leather is good.

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If the check valve ball is sticky or leaks, you can pour a bit of shellite or carburettor cleaner into the pump tube no pressure in fount and fuel cap loose. Let it stand for a while then pump it through. Neatsfoot oil or ordinary engine oil will be best for the pump leather seal.

Avoid vegetable oils as they contain oleic acids that rot the leather.

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Thanks, that did the job! Retinas just about ok again!!! What a great forum.

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And with new found cleverness, got this a working as well found at markets this morning. MustlustJul 22, Good work! PaulyJul 22, There is also a small slot underneath the globe rest where one could insert a match to light the lantern.

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Despite all the upgrades, less than 13, were sold across Coleman and its Yale and Sunshine subsidiaries in the s. This one, stamped Coleman, is dated This lantern was discontinued around or It is roughly the same lantern, but it shunned the wood handle as a fire hazard. There is no air tube, either, which slightly reduced the weight.

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Lead was used in making the fount, which is nickel-plated, and it still provides candlepower of light. Hiram Strong's records indicate that 28, were shipped; this one is dated ML Coleman's rise to prestige happened to coincide with World War I, which allowed them to establish a connection with the U.

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This ML, the ML denoting "military," may have been overseas at one point in an encampment during the fighting. They hold an unreplicated five quarts of gasoline, and this was unreplicated for good reason - when they were marketed inneither version sold well since they were even larger than an Arc Lantern.

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The Poultry House lantern on the right has the infamous "The hens that lay are the hens that pay" quip, which proved to be more popular than the lantern itself. Less than of them were shipped, and many have been lost with time.

The Poultry House lantern is far rarer, but the Jumbo Gas lantern isn't common, either. A third version may have existed as well, but has never been found.

It is a Quick-Lite lantern that has two mantles and a mica chimney and used to be nickel-plated, but a newbie took initiative to strip it down to its brass base.

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LZ The LZ was produced between and and was one of Coleman's more unique offerings at the time. This Quick-Lite sports a curved air tube with a support rod, and an angle valve hidden underneath the globe to control the amount of lighting. It sports two chimneys and a mica globe.

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Like the 2LQ above, an inexperienced hobbyist stripped the nickel plating around the brass to produce the result you see here.

This lantern has a twin whose plating was also stripped; the two are dated April and August of Equipped with an internal pump and mica globe, this two-mantle lantern sold for fourteen years over the course of the Great Depression.

This one is dated October ; the nickel plating and green paint on the vent top were stripped by the same rookie hobbyist. The L of Hiram Strong Coleman's L was first made in the late s, as this one was - its add-on pump is indicative of an early model. The top of this two-mantle lantern was originally painted green. This lantern is special because it was used by Bud Michael when he was channeling Hiram Strong at an International Coleman Collectors Club Convention - hence the sticker and the sign.

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