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However, we can certainly help assist you in selecting the correct size for your application. The following chart provides the guidelines for the relationship between Clemco blast nozzles and air consumption:. If one component is faulty, the entire system will fail. The air hose should, at minimum, be 4 times the diameter of the nozzle orifice. The reason a large air hose is recommended is to reduce pressure caused by friction: your air pressure PSI will actually drop due to friction created within the more restrictive, smaller ID air hose.

This is intended to "fluff" the media and capture it in a medium velocity airstream so it flows freely up to the gun. Solid media does not flow well. Check this feature and see if it it's clogged or, if it's equipped with a free air connection via a small diameter hose, if the entrainment supply hose is clogged. Generally, blocking the nozzle with yous hand in the sleeve glove and squeezing the trigger will forge a regurgitation clearing the siphon.

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Anyway you need a free air source at the pick-up end to entrain the media in an airstream for the siphon to work correctly. Thanks all for the replies.

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Based on that so far, neither my abrasive nor my air are as dry as they could be. The compressor has an aftercooler but not a separate dryer.

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I'll check out a heater for the hopper. The abrasive does seem to flow freely, doesn't just clump and clog. For immediate relief, I'll try the series of holes in the top of the feed tube, to admit air to help the abrasive flow more evenly. I'd like to dig this thread up to hopefully generate additional feedback.

From there, it Tees into the siphon air inlet, and another quick connect to link up the pressure pot. I know the pot is way more efficient, but the need to continually screen and refill makes it way less TIME efficient. I saw some videos on YouTube of guys that picked up the Tacoma Company upgrade kit which essentially converts a HF blast cabinet into a workable unit, but the meat of this upgrade is the gravity fed metering valve that supplies a measured amount of media to the venturi stream.

Though I wish I were financially stable enough to purchase the upgrade outright, my reality has left me in the position of trying to reverse engineer it or do without it. That said, I am going to try this regardless and will share my results, but I'm hoping maybe some else has tried something like this with some success.

Maybe I just got lucky, but I recently bought the Horrible Freight blasting cabinet and have been using it with great success. I sealed all the joints with caulk as I was assembling it and mounted a motor and fan from an upright vacuum on the back of the unit to create negative pressure.

The setup is a normal air gun, with a hose at a second attachment. This sucks in sand at a constant rate, via Bernoulli's Principle, like an aspiration setup in a chemistry class. Find a bucket of sand for the hose to rest in. Find some good method to keep the hose submerged in sand, like duct-taping the hose to the side of the bucket so that it's always pointed downwards. What size air hose do I need to hook up my new blast pot? As the "sandblasting expert," a question I receive quite often is, I just received my new blast pot, but it doesn't have the air hose to hook it up what size air hose do I need?It's true that when you purchase a blast pot from benjamingaleschreck.com, an air hose is not supplied with your unit.

This works so well that the gloves are fully inflated and standing straight out when I turn on the vac. In addition you can see air bubbling up through the sand yes i'm using play sand at the bottom when the vac is running.

I think these were key to my success, sealing the joints and a strong negative pressure. MikeOfAllTrades liked this post. Apart from dry grit, another trick is to put a metered air line in the sand ''pit'' to keep it fluid therefore more easily sucked up by the vacuum. Keith, I hope you're venting to somewhere other than your open shop air for your safety.

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I got a strong shop vac, but can't do the glove test till my new gloves arrive in the mail, but as it is now, when blasting, I can feel the air draw across my arm hairs through the large rips in my current Horrible Fright blast gloves. Sami, I had that same fleeting thought today, but this would only work if that metered air were triggered from say a foot pedal which I don't yet have.

Otherwise, air would continue to push media into the feed, and then back out once it gets resistance.

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I connected all my fittings today and drilled the necessary holes in the hopper, but the media feed was only momentary. I think I might feed a recovery air line into the 1" line to hopefully assist with the siphoning and hopefully make for a steady fluid media stream to my gun.

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Here's some pics. Originally Posted by Limy Sami. Sorry, I think I misunderstood, do you mean to have the air blowing indefinitely to fluff the media near the suction port? Actually in the middle of this endeavor myself.

Sep 20,   Make sure they are flush as the end that sticks in the media, but the smaller is a inch or so longer at the other end so it's easy to hook up the siphon tube from the nozzle to the smaller tube. Either crimp the larger tube or drill and put a cotter key or something so that the two tubes are more or less locked together. Angela&Alex Pressure Washer Sandblasting Kit, PSI Wet Sandblaster Attachment with Goggle, 1/4 Inch Quick Disconnect Sandblasting Kit out of 5 stars 45 $ $ 99 $ $ Oct 03,   How to Use a Sandblaster Step 1 - Select and Setup Equipment Properly While it is obvious that setting up equipment will be the first step, there are a few key points to know about equipment setup for sandblasting and how it will impact both your production and ability to effectively sandblast. First, is the type of sandblaster your using.

I have my pickup located externally. I welded a pipe nipple to the bottom of the cabinet, on the hinged drain. There's a tee screwed to that with a barb on one side for the suction hose.

Currently the other side of the tee is open. Experiencing similar pulsing, I'm planning on spending some time putting an air bleed on it, hopefully it solves the problem. I can post some pictures if anyone wants to see my setup Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.

Originally Posted by kineticmx. Thanks for bringing this thread back to the top.

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First, is the type of sandblaster your using. There are pressure and suction sandblasters. Suction blasters are meant primarily for touch up work and not for blasting off new paint or profiling a surface for the first time.

Pressure blast pots are what should be used for the majority of blasting work. If you have a sandblast cabinet though, a suction blast cabinet can be used for first time work see photos below for each type of blast equipment.

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In addition to a proper sandblast machine for your work, you should also ensure you have a properly sized compressor and air hose for your sandblasting work. Compressed air and your sandblast nozzle size is the number one factor that determines sandblasting speed, specifically volume or CFM of compressed air.

To maximize productivity, you should consider purchasing or renting the largest CFM compressor you can afford. More on compressed air for sandblasting can be read here.

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After having the sandblast pot and compressor determined, next you want to ensure you use properly sized air hose both to your sandblaster and to the blast nozzle. Large diameter air hose is important because it will help ensure your air pressure and air volume remain high throughout your blast system. For every 1 psi of air pressure that is lost due to restricted air hose or long air hose length, there is a bout a 1.

For best results use an air hose to your blast pot and to the blast nozzle that is 4 times the size of your blast nozzle opening. A final step in selecting and setting up your blast equipment is to ensure you have proper safety gear and your equipment is safe. Specifics that are required for blasting include a OSHA certified blast hood respirator, dead man safety system on your blast hose, and a Carbon Monoxide monitor if delivering air to your operator from a compressor.

You also want to inspect your air line for any bumps or wear and to verify your blast hose has safety cables securing the line across any connections to prevent your blast hose from starting to whip if it would ever loose connection to another piece of the blast hose or to the blast pot.

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Now you have your equipment, air, and media all setup and adjusted. Go back to filtering menu.

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Why a pressurised blast pot blocks up.

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